Seemingly unaffected by the passage of time, this small, bottle-lined bar located just behind Plaza Mayor serves simple, good-value tapas, including excellent Asturian cabrales cheese and boquerones (anchovies). Wash it all down with a glass of vermút or fino.

C/ de los Cuchilleros 6 (Metro Sol)

Open: Mon & Wed-Fri: 11.30am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight (Fri & Sat til 1am), Sun 12.30-5pm.